top of page

The Economics, Policy & Trend Analysis of Fashion

Fashion is shaped by political decisions, cultural shifts, and regulatory gaps — and driven by profit models built on overproduction, rapid trend cycles, and cheap fossil‑fuel materials. This section unpacks the policies, financial structures, and narrative engines that determine how the industry evolves: who holds power, how trend stories are manufactured, and why certain materials dominate our wardrobes. It also maps the pathways toward a fossil‑free fashion system, examining the political, economic, and cultural shifts required for a just transition

< Back

PFAS in the United Kingdom: A National Contamination Crisis and the Limits of Government Action

Per‑ and poly‑fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) have become one of the most pervasive chemical threats in the United Kingdom, saturating rivers, soils, wildlife, drinking water, and consumer products. The UK government’s PFAS Plan: Building a Safer Future Together (DEFRA, 2026) acknowledges the scale of the problem with unusual clarity, describing PFAS as “one of the most pressing chemical challenges of our time” and warning that their “persistence and widespread presence in our environment pose risks we cannot ignore” (DEFRA 2026, p.3). Yet despite this recognition, PFAS continue to be manufactured, imported, and used across the UK economy. The gap between the government’s stated ambition and the material reality of ongoing PFAS flows raises a critical question: is the PFAS Plan a meaningful regulatory intervention, or a form of environmental lip service?


The scale of PFAS contamination in the UK


The government’s own monitoring data reveals the extent of PFAS contamination. According to the PFAS Plan, PFAS have been detected in “approximately 80% of surface water samples, approximately 50% of groundwater samples, and all fish samples” tested across the UK (DEFRA 2026, p.10). Wildlife monitoring shows PFAS accumulating in top predators including harbour porpoises, otters, foxes and birds of prey, with evidence that concentrations of some PFAS are already harmful to certain species (DEFRA 2026, p.10–11). These findings align with international research demonstrating that PFAS bioaccumulate, biomagnify, and persist for centuries (Cousins et al. 2020; Sunderland et al. 2019).


Human exposure is equally widespread. The PFAS Plan notes that people are exposed through “diet, drinking water, indoor dust and skin contact” (DEFRA 2026, p.11). Epidemiological studies have linked PFAS exposure to immune suppression, thyroid disruption, reduced vaccine response, reproductive harm, and certain cancers (Grandjean et al. 2020; Steenland et al. 2020). Although the government emphasises that evidence for many PFAS remains incomplete, it concedes that “children may be more vulnerable during early development” (DEFRA 2026, p.11), echoing findings from developmental toxicology (Liew et al. 2018).

The empirical picture is clear: PFAS contamination is systemic, long‑lasting, and already affecting ecosystems and human health.


Ongoing PFAS production and importation in the UK


Despite this evidence, PFAS continue to be used extensively across UK industries. The PFAS Plan openly acknowledges that PFAS remain embedded in medical devices, electronics, textiles, packaging, construction materials, defence equipment, and clean‑energy technologies (DEFRA 2026, p.4). The government also recognises that PFAS in long‑life products create future stockpiles of PFAS‑containing waste, which will eventually enter the environment through disposal, degradation, or incineration.


The UK also continues to import PFAS‑containing goods with no comprehensive disclosure requirements. Research by Glüge et al. (2020) identifies more than 200 industrial uses of PFAS globally, many of which correspond directly to UK supply chains. The PFAS Plan itself cites the need for “greater transparency” in supply chains because information about PFAS in products is “often lost once PFAS are used in articles” (DEFRA 2026, p.13). This admission underscores a regulatory blind spot: the UK cannot effectively manage PFAS risks while lacking visibility into the PFAS embedded in imported goods.


Why the PFAS Plan feels like lip service


The PFAS Plan presents itself as a decisive national strategy, yet its structure reveals a cautious, incremental approach that prioritises monitoring, research, and voluntary industry action over binding regulation. The plan contains no commitment to a group‑wide PFAS ban, no deadlines for phasing out PFAS, and no restrictions on PFAS in consumer products. Instead, it emphasises the need to “balance ensuring that measures protect people and wildlife while recognising the potential negative impacts on society, consumers and industry” (DEFRA 2026, p.8). This framing positions PFAS reduction as a trade‑off with economic growth, rather than a public health imperative.


The plan also places significant responsibility on industry, stating that “industry should take steps to manage the risks from PFAS they manufacture and use” and that “transparent self‑regulation” will be essential (DEFRA 2026, p.8). This reliance on voluntary action mirrors earlier regulatory failures involving PFOS, PFOA, flame retardants, and microplastics, where industry self‑regulation delayed meaningful intervention for decades (Wang et al. 2017).


Furthermore, the plan highlights the importance of PFAS for “clean energy technologies,” “medical goods,” and “defence equipment” (DEFRA 2026, p.4), signalling that the government intends to protect PFAS‑dependent industries. This industrial dependency creates a structural incentive to delay or dilute regulation, even as contamination worsens.

Why the public should be concerned


The public has strong reasons to be concerned about PFAS contamination and the limitations of the current government response. PFAS are not like other pollutants; they do not degrade, they accumulate in bodies and ecosystems, and they persist for centuries. Once PFAS enter drinking water, soils, or food chains, they cannot be removed at scale. The PFAS Plan itself warns that PFAS present “threats of serious or irreversible damage” and that “a lack of full scientific certainty may not present a reason for postponing cost‑effective measures” (DEFRA 2026, p.9). This is a direct invocation of the precautionary principle, yet the plan does not follow through with precautionary regulation.


The public should also be concerned because PFAS exposure is involuntary. People cannot opt out of contaminated water, contaminated food, or contaminated indoor dust. Communities living near chemical plants, landfills, wastewater treatment works, and military sites face disproportionate exposure risks, raising issues of environmental justice (Cordner et al. 2019).


Finally, the costs of inaction will fall on the public. Removing PFAS from drinking water requires advanced filtration technologies that are expensive to install and maintain. Treating PFAS‑related health conditions imposes long‑term burdens on the NHS. Cleaning contaminated soils and waterways is technically challenging and financially prohibitive. As Sunderland et al. (2019) argue, the societal costs of PFAS contamination far exceed the economic benefits of continued PFAS production.


Conclusion


The UK’s PFAS Plan acknowledges the severity of PFAS contamination with unusual candour, yet it stops short of committing to the regulatory measures needed to meaningfully reduce PFAS flows into the environment. PFAS continue to be manufactured, imported, and used across the UK economy, even as monitoring data reveals widespread contamination of water, wildlife, and human exposure pathways. The plan’s emphasis on industry self‑regulation, economic trade‑offs, and future research creates the impression of action while avoiding the structural changes required to protect public health.


The public should be concerned because PFAS contamination is irreversible on human timescales, because exposure is involuntary, and because the long‑term costs of inaction will be borne by communities, ecosystems, and future generations. Without binding restrictions, supply‑chain transparency, and a clear timeline for phasing out non‑essential PFAS uses, the PFAS Plan risks becoming a symbolic gesture rather than a transformative strategy.

References

Cordner, A., De La Rosa, V.Y., Schaider, L.A., Rudel, R.A., Richter, L. and Brown, P. (2019) ‘Guidelines for community engagement in research and regulatory processes’, Environmental Health, 18(1), pp. 1–16.

Cousins, I.T., DeWitt, J.C., Glüge, J., Goldenman, G., Herzke, D., Lohmann, R., Miller, M., Ng, C.A., Scheringer, M. and Wang, Z. (2020) ‘The high persistence of PFAS is sufficient for their management as a chemical class’, Environmental Science: Processes & Impacts, 22(12), pp. 2307–2312.

DEFRA (2026) PFAS Plan: Building a Safer Future Together. Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs. “PFAS have been found in approximately 80% of surface water samples, approximately 50% of groundwater samples, and all fish samples” (p.10). “PFAS present threats of serious or irreversible damage” (p.9).

Glüge, J., Scheringer, M., Cousins, I.T., DeWitt, J.C., Goldenman, G., Herzke, D., Lohmann, R., Ng, C.A., Trier, X. and Wang, Z. (2020) ‘An overview of the uses of PFAS’, Environmental Science: Processes & Impacts, 22(12), pp. 2345–2373.

Grandjean, P., Andersen, E.W., Budtz-Jørgensen, E., Nielsen, F., Mølbak, K., Weihe, P. and Heilmann, C. (2020) ‘Serum vaccine antibody concentrations in children exposed to perfluorinated compounds’, JAMA, 307(4), pp. 391–397.

Liew, Z., Ritz, B., von Ehrenstein, O.S., Bech, B.H., Nohr, E.A. and Fei, C. (2018) ‘Prenatal exposure to perfluoroalkyl substances and the risk of congenital anomalies’, Environmental Research, 160, pp. 449–456.

Steenland, K., Zhao, L., Winquist, A. and Parks, C. (2020) ‘Ulcerative colitis and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) exposure’, Environmental Health Perspectives, 128(2), pp. 1–9.

Sunderland, E.M., Hu, X.C., Dassuncao, C., Tokranov, A.K., Wagner, C.C. and Allen, J.G. (2019) ‘A review of the pathways of human exposure to poly- and perfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) and present understanding of health effects’, Journal of Exposure Science & Environmental Epidemiology, 29(2), pp. 131–147.

Wang, Z., DeWitt, J.C., Higgins, C.P. and Cousins, I.T. (2017) ‘A never-ending story of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs)?’, Environmental Science & Technology, 51(5), pp. 2508–2518.

Join us, become part of the change that helps correct the narrative on climate change. To stop the use of fossil fuel and chemicals in our clothing. Together, we will make a profound impact on our world.

ONE STEP AT A TIME

 You can support our operations and help us in our mission by signing up to the

Don't Dump It, Swap It Shop

Loveitstitchitkeepit.com

                            Don't Dump it, Swap Shop

oil dress figure back remove.PNG
r.png
bottom of page